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Arctic Cat repair manuals cover every aspect of maintenance and repair. Here's a small sample of topics often covered in an Arctic Cat snowmobile repair manual actual topics will vary depending on year an model :.
Download an Arctic Cat snowmobile repair manual instantly. It really is that simple. Get the repair information you need to fix your snow-mobile in seconds. You can download the manual to your computer, tablet or smart phone. A typical download takes under a minute. What year and model repair manuals are available for download? I need a manual for a Arctic Cat fireboat snow mobile. Repair manuals are available for years: Repair manuals are available for the following models:. Hello i need repair manual for arctic cat bearcat wt t model Need timing how too set cam chain and so on..
News Ticker. Arctic Cat snowmobiles are built with metric and U. Screwdrivers The basic screwdriver, ifit is used improperly, will do more damage than good. The slot on a screw has a definite dimension and shape. A screwdriver must be selected to conform with that shape. Use a small screwdriver for small screws and a large one for large screws or the screw head will be damaged.
Two basic types of screwdrivers are required: common flat-blade screwdrivers Figure 26 and Phillips screwdrivers Figure If you buy them individually, buy at least the following: a. Phillips screwdriver-size 2 tip, 6 in.
Use screwdrivers only for driving screws. Never use a screwdriver for prying or chiseling metal. Do not try to remove a Phillips or Allen head screw with a common screwdriver unless the screw has a combination head that will accept either type. Ifyou use the improper screwdriver, you may damage the head so that the proper tool will be unable to remove it.
Keep screwdrivers in good condition and they will last longer and perform better. Always keep the tip of a common screwdriver in good condi- tion. Figure 28 shows how to grind the tip to the proper shape if it becomes damaged. Note the symmetrical sides of the tip. Pliers Pliers corne in a wide range of types and sizes.
Pliers are useful for holding, cutting, bending and crimping. They should never be used to cut hardened objects or to tum bolts or nuts. Figure 29 shows several pliers useful in snowmobile repair. Each type of pliers has a specialized function. Slip-joint pliers are used mainly for holding things and bending.
Needlenose pliers are used to hold orbend small objects. Groove-joint pliers known by the brand name Channelock can be adjusted to hold various sizes of objects such as pipe or tubing.
There are many more types of pliers, but the ones described are the most suit- able for snowmobile repair. CAUTION If it is necessary to use slip-joint pliers to grasp thefinished suiface on an object that can be easily damaged, wrap the objectwith tape orcardboardforprotec- tion. Locking Pliers Locking pliers Figure 30 hold objects very tightly like a vise.
Because locking pliers exert more force than regular pliers, their sharp jaws can permanently scar any object that is held. In addition, when locking pliers are locked in posi- tion, they can crush or deform thin wall material.
Locking pliers are available in many types for specific tasks. Snap Ring Circlip Pliers Snap ring pliers Figure 31 are made for removing and installing snap rings and should not be used for any other purpose.
External pliers spreading or expanding are used for removing snap rings from the outside of a shaft or other similar part. Internal snap rings are located inside a tube, gear or housing, and require pliers that squeeze the ends ofthe snap ring together so that the snap ring can be removed.
Box-end, Open-end and Combination Wrenches Box-end and open-end wrenches Figure 32 are available in sets or separately in a variety of sizes. The number stamped on open- and box- end wrenches refers to the distance between two parallel flats of a nut or bolt head. Combination wrenches have a box-end wrench on one end and an open-end wrench ofthe same size on the other end.
The wrench size is stamped near the center of combination wrenches. Their wide jaws make them unsuitable for situations where the bolt or nut is sunken in a well or close to the edge of a casting. These wrenches only grip on two flats of a fastener so if either the fastener head or wrench jaws are worn, the wrench may slip off. The fastener must have overhead access to use box-end wrenches, but they grip all six comers of a fastener for a very secure grip.
Box-end wrenches may be either 6-point or point. The point box-end wrench permits operation in situations where there is only a small amount of room to tum or move the wrench. The 6-point gives superior holding power and durability, but it requires a greater swinging radius. No matter what style of wrench you choose, proper use is important to prevent personal in- jury. When using any wrench, get in the habit of pulling the wrench toward you.
This reduces the risk of injuring your hand if the wrench should slip. If you have to push the wrench away from you to loosen or tighten a fastener, open and push with the palm of your hand. This technique gets your fingers and knuckles out of the way should the wrench slip. Before using a wrench, always consider what could happen ifthe wrench should slip, if the bolt were to slip, or if the bolt were to break.
Adjustable Wrenches An adjustable wrench sometimes called a Crescent wrench can be adjusted to fit nearly any nut or bolt head that has clear access around its entire perimeter. An adjustable wrench Fig- ure 33 is best used as a backup wrench to keep a large nut or bolt from turning while the other end is being loosened or tightened with a proper wrench.
Adjustable wrenches have only two gripping surfaces, and one is designed to be moveable. These wrenches are directional; the solid jaw must be the one transmitting the force. Ifyou use the adjustable jaw to transmit the force, it may loosen, allowing the wrench to slip off. Adjustable wrenches come in several sizes but a 6- or 8-inch size is recommended as an all-pur- pose wrench.
Socket Wrenches This type is undoubtedly the fastest, safest and most convenient to use. The drive size indicates the size of the square hole which mates with the ratchet handle. Torque Wrench A torque wrench Figure 35 is used with a socket to measure how tightly a nut or bolt is installed.
The drive size indicates the size of the square drive which mates with the socket. Impact Driver This tool makes the removal of tight fasteners easy and reduces the chance for damage to bolts and screw slots. Impact drivers and interchange- able bits Figure 36 are available at most large hardware, snowmobile and motorcycle dealer- ships. Sockets can also be used with a hand impact driver; however, make sure the socket is designed for impact use B, Figure Regular hand type sockets A, Figure 37 may shatter if used to loosen a tight fastener.
A hammer with a rubber or plastic face or head , or a soft-faced hammer that is filled with lead or steel shot, is sometimes nec- essary for engine teardowns. Never use a metal- faced hammer on engine or suspension parts, as severe damage will result in most cases.
A metal-faced hammer, however, is required when using a hand impact driver. When performing many of the serv- ice procedures in this manual, you will be required to make a number of measurements. As you get deeper into engine disassembly and service, measure- ments will be required to determine the condition ofthe piston and cylinder bore, crankshaftrunout and so on. When making these measurements, the degree of accuracy will dictate which tool is required.
Precision measuring tools are expen- sive. If this is your first experience at engine service, it may be more worthwhile to have the checks made at a dealership. However, as your skills and enthusiasm increase for doing your own service work, you may want to begin pur- chasing some of these specialized tools. The following paragraphs describe the measuring tools required to perform service procedures de- scribed in this manual. Feeler Gauge Feeler gauges are available in sets of various sizes Figure Each gauge is a specified thickness.
The gauge is made ofeither a piece of flat or round hardened steel. Wire gauges are used to measure spark plug gap. Flat gauges are used for most other measurements. Vernier Caliper A vernier caliper Figure 40 is invaluable when reading inside, outside and depth measure- ments with close precision. Outside Micrometers One of the most reliable tools used for preci- sion measurement is the outside micrometer.
Outside micrometers will be required to measure piston diameter. Outside micrometers are also used with other tools to measure cylinder bore. Micrometers can be purchased individually or as a set Figure Dial Indicator Dial indicators Figure 42 are precision tools used to check differences in machined surfaces, such as the ronout of a crankshaft or brake disc.
A dial indicator may also be used to locate the piston at a specific position when checking igni- tion timing. For snowmobile repair, select a dial indicator with a continuous dial Figure Several different mounting types are available, including a magnetic stand that attaches to iron surfaces, a clamp that can be attached to various components, and a spark plug adapter that lo- cates the probe of the dial indicator through the spark plug hole of the cylinder head.
See Mag- netic Stand in this chapter. The various mounts are required for specific measuring require- ments. The text will indicate the type of mount- mg necessary. Degree Wheel A degree wheel Figure 44 is a specific tool used to measure parts of a circle and angles. For Arctic Cat snowmobiles, a degree wheel can be used to help locate and mark the crankshaft position. A degree wheel can be ordered through most parts suppliers.
The bore gauge can be used to make cylinder bore measurements such as bore size, taper and out-of-round. An outside micrometer must be used to calibrate the bore gauge to a specific bore diameter. An outside mi- crometer must be used together with the small hole gauge to.
Like the small hole gauge, the telescoping gauge does not have a scale gauge for direct readings. An outside micrometer must be used together with the tele- scoping gauge to determine bore dimensions. Compression Gauge An engine with low compression cannot be properly tuned and will not develop full power.
A compression gauge Figure 48 measures en- gine compression. The one shown has a flexible stem with an extension that can allow you to hold it while starting the engine. Open the throttle all the way when checking engine compression. See Chapter Three. Strobe Timing Light This instrument is useful for checking ignition timing.
By flashing a light at the precise instant the spark plug fires, the position of the timing mark can be seen. The flashing light makes the moving mark appear to stand still so that it can be viewed in relation to the stationary mark.
Suitable lights range from inexpensive neon bulb types to powerful xenon strobe lights. A light with an inductive pickup is recommended to eliminate any possible damage to ignition wiring. The timing light should be attached and used according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. The voltmeter can be used to indi- cate the voltage applied or available to various components. The ohmmetercan be used to check for continuity and to measure resistance.
Some tests are easily accomplished using a meter with sweeping needle, but other components should be checked with a digital VOM. Screw Pitch Gauge A screw pitch gauge Figure 51 determines the thread pitch of bolts, screws and studs.
The gauge is made up ofa number ofthin plates. Each plate has a thread shape cut on one edge to match one thread pitch. When using a screw pitch gauge to determine a thread pitch size, try to fit different blade sizes onto the bolt thread until both threads match. Surface Plate A surface plate is used to check the flatness of parts.
While industrial-grade surface plates are quite expensive, the home mechanic can impro- vise. A piece of thick, flat metal or plate glass can sometimes be used as a surface plate. The quality of the surface plate will affect the accu- racy ofthe measurement.
The metal surface plate shown in Figure 54 has a piece offine grit paper on its surface to assist cleaning and smoothing a flat surface. The machined surfaces of the cylin- der head, crankcase and other closely fitting parts may require a very good quality surface plate to smooth nicked or damaged surfaces.
NOTE Check with a local machine shop, fabri- cating shop or a school offering a ma- chine shop course for the availability of a metal plate that can be resuifaced and used as a suiface plate.
These tools are often a valuable asset even if used infrequently. Most special tools can be ordered through your Arctic Catdealer. It is often necessary to know the specific snowmobile or engine model for selecting the correct special tools. Flywheel Puller A flywheel puller Figure 55 is required whenever it is necessary to remove the flywheel and service the stator plate assembly or when adjusting the ignition timing.
There is no satisfactory substitute for this tool. Because the flywheel is a taper fit on the crank- shaft, makeshift removal often results in crank- shaft and flywheel damage.
Do not attempt removal of the flywheel without this tool. A puller can be ordered through Arctic Cat dealers. Strap Wrench A strap wrench Figure 56 can be used to hold the flywheel when loosening the flywheel retaining nut.
Starter Pulley Holder A universal type holder Figure 57 or the universal Grabbit Figure 58 can be used to hold the recoil starter pulley during removal and installation. Track Clip Installer A track clip installer Figure 60 is required to install track clips.
Spring Scale A spring scale Figure 61 is required to check track tension. Clutch Tools A number of special tools are required for clutch service. These are described in Chapter Thirteen. First, apply penetrating oil such as Liquid Wrench or WD which is available at hardware or auto supply stores. Apply it liberally and let it pene- trate for minutes, then tap the fastener several times with a small hammer. Do not hit it hard enough to cause damage.
Reapply the pene- trating oil ifnecessary. Using an impact driver as described in this chapter will often loosen a stuck bolt or screw. Pounding on a plas- tic-handled screwdriver is a sure way to destroy the tool. For frozen screws, apply additional penetrat- ing oil as described, insert a screwdriver in the slot and tap the top of the screwdriver with a hammer. This loosens the rust so the screw can be removed in the normal way. Ifthe screw head is too chewed up to use this method, grip the head with vise-grip pliers and twist the screw out.
Avoid applying heat unless specifically in- structed, as it may melt, warp or remove the temper from parts. Removing Broken Screws or Bolts If the head breaks off a screw or bolt, several methods are available for removing the remain- ing portion. Ifa large portion ofthe remainderprojects out, try gripping it with vise-grips. If the projecting portion is too small, file it to fit a wrench or cut a slot in it to fit a screwdriver. If the head breaks off flush, use a screw ex- tractor.
Drill a small hole in the screw and tap the extractor into the hole. Back the screw out with a wrench on the extractor. Remedying Stripped Threads Occasionally, threads are damaged. Some- times the threads can be cleaned by running a tap, for internal threads on nuts, or die, for external threads on bolts, through the threads.
To clean or repair spark plug threads, a spark plug tap can be used. Center punch broken stud 2. Drill hole in stud 3. Tap in screw extractor 4.
I' 27 If an internal thread is damaged, it may be necessary to install a Helicoil Figure 66 or some other type of thread insert. Follow the manufacturer's instructions when installing their insert. If it is necessary to drill and tap a hole, refer to Table 7 for metric tap drill sizes. Removing Broken or Damaged Studs If some threads of a stud are damaged, but some threads remain, the old stud can be re- moved as follows.
A tube of Loctite red , two nuts, two wrenches and a new stud will be required during this procedure Figure Thread two nuts onto the damaged stud. Then tighten the two nuts against each other so that they are locked. NOTE Ifthe threads on the damaged studdo not allow installation of the two nuts, you will have to remove the stud with a pair oflocking pliers.
Tum the bottom nut counterclockwise and unscrew the stud. Clean the threads with solvent or electrical contact cleaner and allow them to thoroughly dry. Install two nuts on the top halfofthe new stud as discussed in Step 1. Make sure they are locked securely. Coat the bottom half of a new stud with Loctite red. Tum the top nut clockwise and thread the new stud securely.
Remove the nuts and repeat for each stud as required. Follow Loctite's directions on cure time be- fore assembling the component. Because ball bearings are precision made parts, they must be maintained by proper lubri- cation and maintenance. Replace damaged bear- ings. Using a damaged bearing can result in additional damage to an adjacent shaft or case. If installing a new bearing, exercise care to pre- vent damage to the new bearing. While bearing replacement is described in the individual chap- ters where applicable, the following should be used as a guideline.
NOTE Unless otherwise specified, install bear- ings with the manufacturer's mark or numberfacing outward. Bearing Removal While bearings are normally removed only. However, improper bearing removal will damage the bearing and maybe the shaft or case half.
Note the following when removing bearings: 1. If using a puller to remove a bearing on a shaft, exercise care so that shaft damage does not occur. Always place a piece ofmetal between the end of the shaft and the puller screw. Use a brass or aluminum rod between the hammer and shaft Figure Make sure to support both bearing races with wood blocks. The most ideal method of bearing removal is with a hydraulic hand press.
However, certain procedures must be followed or damage may occur to the bearing, shaft or case half. Note the following when using a press: a. Always support the inner and outer bearing races with a suitably sized wood or alumi- num ring Figure Always make sure the press ram Figure 71 aligns with the center of the shaft. The moment the shaft is free of the bearing, it will drop to the floor. Secure or hold the shaft to prevent it from falling. Bearing Installation 1.
If installing a bearing in a housing, pressure must be applied to the outer bearing race Figure If installing a bearing on a shaft, pressure must be applied to the inner bearing race Figure If installing a bearing as described in Step 1, some type ofdriver will be required.
Never strike the bearing directly with a hammer or the bearing will be damaged. If installing a bearing, a piece of pipe or a socket with an outer diameter that matches the bearing race will be required. Fig- ure 74 shows the correct way to use a socket and hammer when installing a bearing. Step 1 describes how to install a bearing in a case halfand overa shaft. However, when install- ing over a shaft and into a housing at the same time, a snug fit will be required for both outer and inner bearing races.
In this situation, a spacer must be installed underneath the driver tool so that pressure is applied evenly across both races. If the outer race is not supported as shown in Figure 75, the balls will push against the outer bearing track and damage it. Shrink Fit 1. Installing a bearing over a shaft: When a tight fit is required, the bearing inside diameter will be smaller than the shaft.
In this case, driving the bearing on the shaft using normal methods may cause bearing damage. Instead, the bearing should be heated before installation.
Note the following: a. Secure the shaft so that it can be ready for bearing installation. Clean the bearing surface on the shaft of all residue.
Remove burrs with a file or sand- paper. Fill a suitable pot or beaker with clean mineral oil. Support the thermometer so that it does not rest on the bottom or side of the pot.
Remove the bearing from its wrapper and secure it with a piece of heavy wire bent to hold it in the pot. Hang the bearing in the pot so that it does not touch the bottom or sides of the pot.
Tum the heat on and monitor the thermome- ter. If necessary, place a socket on the inner bearing race and tap the bearing into place. As the bearing chills, it will tighten on the shaft so you must work quickly when in- stalling it. Make sure the bearing is installed all the way. Installing a bearing in a housing: Bearings are generally installed in a housing with a slight interference fit.
Driving the bearing into the housing using normal methods may damage the housing or cause bearing damage. An easy way to check to see that it is at the proper temperature is to drop tiny drops ofwater on the case.
Ifthey sizzle and evaporate immediately, the temperature is correct. Heat only one housing at a time. Never bring a flame into contact with the bearing or housing. The direct heat will destroy the case hardening ofthe bearing and will likely warp the housing. Remove the housing from the oven or hot plate and hold onto the housing with a kitchen pot holder, heavy gloves or heavy shop cloths-it is hot.
NOTE A suitably sized socket and extension works well for removing and installing bearings. Spring Dust lip 31 c. Hold the housing with the bearing side down and tap the bearing out.
Repeat for all bearings in the housing. While heating up the housing halves, place the new bearings in a freezer if possible. Chilling them will slightly reduce their overall diameter while the hot housing as- sembly is slightly larger due to heat expan- sion.
This will make installation much eaSIer. NOTE Always install bearings with the manu- facturer's mark or number facing out- ward, unless the text directs otherwise. While the housing is still hot, install the new bearing s into the housing. Install the bear- ings by hand, if possible. If necessary, lightly tap the bearing s into the housing with a socket placed on the outer bearing race.
Do not install new bearings by driving on the inner bearing race. Install the bear- ing s until it seats completely. Improper procedures to remove a seal can damage the housing or the shaft.
Improper installation can damage the seal. Prying is generally the easiest and most effective method of removing a seal from a housing.
However, always place a rag un- derneath the pry tool to prevent damage to the housing. A low temperature grease should be packed in the seal lips before the seal is installed. Oil seals should always be installed so that the manufacturer's numbers or marks face out.
Select a socket that fits the seal's outer diameter properly and clears any protruding shafts. Oil seals should be installed with a seal driver placed on the outside of the seal as shown in Figure Make sure the seal is driven squarely into the housing. Never in- stall a seal by hitting against the top of the seal with a hammer.
However, because snowmobiles are often operated in extreme weather conditions, over rough terrain, and in remote areas, they should be checked before each ride and main- tained on a periodic basis. WARNING Never lean into a snowmobile's engine compartment while wearing a scmf or other loose clothing when the engine is running or when the driver is attempting to start the engine.
If the scmfor cloth- ing should catch in the drive belt or clutch, severe injury or death could re- sult. Prestart Inspection A prestart inspection should always be per-. While the following list may look exhaustive, it can be performed rather quickly after you be- come familiar with it. Familiarize yourself with your snowmobile. Clean the windshield with a clean, damp cloth. Do not use gasoline, solvents or abrasive cleaners.
Check track tension Chapter Three and ad- just if necessary. Check the tether switch and the emergency stop switch for properoperation. Ifyour machine is new or if you are using a friend's machine, practice using the tether or stop switch a few times so that its use will be automatic during an emergency. Check brake operation.
Be sure the brake system is correctly adjusted and operates prop- erly. Check the fuel level and fill as needed. Check the oil injection tank. Make sure it is full. Check the coolant level.
Operate the throttle lever. It should open and close smoothly. Open the belt guard and visually inspect the drive belt. If the belt appears worn or damaged, replace it. Chapter Fourteen lists drive belt wear limit specifications. Close the belt guard after inspecting the belt.
Make sure the belt guard mounts are not loose or damaged. While the engine shroud is open, visually inspect all hoses, fittings and parts for looseness or damage. Check the tightness of all bolts and nuts. Tighten as required. Check the handlebar and steering compo- nents for looseness or damage.
Do not ride the vehicle if any steering component is damaged. Tighten loose fasteners as required. After closing the shroud, make sure the shroud latches are fastened securely. Check the skis for proper alignment Chap- ter Three. Check the ski pivot bolt for tightness or damage. A sudden lurch of the ma- chine could cause serious injury. Make sure all lights are working. NOTE If abnormal noises are detected after starting the engine, locate and repair the problem before starting out.
NOTE Refer to the appropriate chapter for tightening torques and service proce- dures. Tools and Spare Parts Before leaving on a trip, make sure that you carry tools and spare parts in case ofemergency.
A tool kit should include the following: a. Flashlight b. Rope c. Tools d. Tape A Spare parts kit should include the following: a. Drive belt b. Emergency starter rope c.
Light bulbs d. Spark plugs e. Mainjets f. Throttle cable g. Brake cable h. This book Emergency Starting If your recoil starter rope should break and the electric starter does not work, the engine can be started with an emergency starting strap stored in your snowmobile's tool kit.
Never lean into the snowmobile's engine compartment while wearing a scalf or other loose clothing while the engine is running or when attempting to start the engine. If the scalfor clothing should catch in the drive belt or clutch, severe injury or death could result. Open the shroud. Remove the belt guard pin and rotate the belt guard forward. Remove the emergency starting strap from your tool kit. Set all switches to ON. Do not wrap the strap around the clutch tower or per- sonal injury may occur when attempting to start the engine.
Wrap the emergency starting strap counter- clockwise around the primary sheave so that the end of the strap is on the outside of the clutch tower. Pull the strap upward and start the engine. Ifthe end ofthe strap shouldfall into and engage with the rotating clutch or drive belt, personal injury to yourself or damage to the clutch or drive belt assembly may result.
Reinstall the drive belt guard after starting the engine. Close and secure the shroud. Store the emergency starting strap in your tool kit. Repair the recoil starter assembly as soon as possible. This condition would make starting and running difficult. Ice and rocks thrown from the track can cause injury. Tip the snowmobile on its side until the track clears the ground completely. Run the track at a moderate speed until all the ice and snow is thrown clear.
Attempting to force afrozen track with the engine will burn anddamage the drive belt. Even mild temperatures can be very uncomfortable and dangerous when combined with a strong wind or when traveling at high speeds. See Table 8 for wind chill factors. Always dress according to what the wind chill factor is, not the temperature. Check with an authorized dealer for suggested types of snowmobile clothing.
Emergency Survival Techniques 1. Do not panic in the event of an emergency. You may be within a short distance of help. If possible, repair your snow- mobile so you can drive to safety. Conserve your energy and stay warm.
Keep hands and feet active to promote circu- lation and avoid frostbite while servicing your machine. Mentally retrace your route. Where was the last point where help could be located? Do not attempt to walk long distances in deep snow. Make yourself comfortable until help arrives.
Ifyou are properly equipped for your trip, you can tum any undesirable area into a suitable campsite. If necessary, build a small shelter with tree branches or evergreen boughs. Look for a shel- tered area against a hill or cliff. Even burrowing in snow offers protection from the cold and wind. Prepare a signal fire using evergreen boughs and snowmobile oil. If you cannot build a fire, make an S-O-S in the snow. Use a policeman's whistle or beat cooking utensils to attract attention.
When your camp is established, climb the nearest hill and determine your whereabouts. Observe landmarks on the way, so you can find your way back to your campsite. Do not rely on your footprints. They may be covered by blow- mg snow. I will be a good sportsman and conservation- ist. I recognize that people judge all snowmobil- ers by my actions. I will use my influence with other snowmobile owners and operators to pro- mote sportsmanlike conduct. I will not litter any trails or areas, nor will I pollute streams or lakes.
I will carry out what I carry m. I will not damage living trees, shrubs or other natural features. I will respect other people's properties and rights. I will lend a helping hand when I see someone in need. I will make myself and my vehicle available to assist in search and rescue operations. I will not interfere with the activities of other winter sportsmen.
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